This is a topic that seems to come up all the time on the various glassworking forums. Here’s a condensed version of how it is done. If you are not comfortable with doing the work yourself (or your significant other/boyfriend/husband/etc is all thumbs) show this document to a plumber who is certified (or licensed) to do fuel gas plumbing.
1. BBQ tank in an enclosure, separated from the building by at least 1-2 feet. Block off the area between the enclosure and the house somehow, to prevent traffic (this will become obvious as to why in a moment).
2. Regulator on the tank.
3. Quick disconnnect on the regulator (makes changing out tanks much easier)
4. Flexible metallic hose – should be long enough to reach into the enclosure and reach the house.
5. Gas-rated shut off valve. These are available at most home improvement stores. Be absolutely sure you get a gas rated one and not one rated only for water or air.
6. Hard wall pipe – copper, brass, black pipe, stainless. Through the wall. Seal the hole with any weatherproof sealant. Be sure the pipe cannot rotate.
7. Gas-rated shut off valve.
Now, depending on how far the work bench is from the point of entry, you have a couple of choices here:
If the distance to the torch from point 7 is less than 2 feet, put a 1/4″ hose barb on the end of the shut off valve and run “T” grade hose the rest of the way to the torch.
Otherwise, run additional hard wall pipe to within 2 feet of the torch, then follow the above directions.
All NPT (National Pipe Thread) connections must be sealed with either fuel gas rated pipe sealant (aka pipe dope) or teflon tape. The flexible metallic hose has metal-to-metal seals (similar to the “B” fittings), and those must not be exposed to pipe sealant or teflon tape.
When the entire line is assembled, pressurize it and test for leaks with a soap solution. Any leak found must be sealed.
All straight metal pipe runs of more than 12″ must be supported by either clamps to the wall or some other fashion to prevent the pipe from being snagged.